An In -“Spire”-ing Skyline

In “The City of Spires”. the oldest building in Central Copenhagen is Saint Peter’s Church. Sankt Petri Kirke is in Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter. Built in mid-15th Century, originally was one of four Catholic Churches, today the congregation is made up of German speaking Lutheran-Evangelicals.CPH1_-42St. Petri’s Kirke is where you can find the remains of one Johan Friedrich Struensee. When he arrived in Copenhagen at age 31 he was King Christian 7’s doctor. He considered himself an atheist and man of the Enlightenment and never set foot in the church while he was alive.
After his affair with Queen Caroline Mathilde was discovered, he was sentenced to death by beheading on April 28th 1772. The body was dismembered and the parts taken to Gallows Hill. In 1885, some human bones were dug up at the site, which then belonged to Vestre Kirkegård (the cemetery). The human remains that were found belonged to several people, some showed evidence of being hacked with an axe. Thought to belong to Struensee, they have resided in a child’s coffin in the crypt under the church.
CPH1_-44From the Observation Deck at the Round Tower (Runtaarn) you can see the many spires of Copenhagen. The former St. Nikolaj Kirke (St. Nicholas Church) in the foreground is now a contemporary art museum.CPH1_-58St Nicholas Church was built close to the shore, and was the church of fishermen, sailors and visiting traders. The church was named after the patron saint of sailors.CPH1_-88 The Old Stock Exchange (Borsen) has the most interesting spire in the city. The tails of four dragons are intertwined to create the spire. The legend is that the dragon tailed spire guards the building against enemy attacks and fires. The Old Stock Exchange been spared from damage on many occasions, even when fires have broken out in neighboring buildings. CPH1_-87The Danish Chamber of Commerce now resides in the building.The three crowns that top the spire represent the Scandinavian empire – Denmark, Sweden and Finland.CPH1_-90Sitting in the Christianhaven section of the city, the Church of Our Savior has a spire with an external staircase for climbing to the top. The Church is visited by more people than any other in Copenhagen.CPH1_-212The 400 steps to the top wrap around the spire 4 times. Like many fortresses the steps wind to the right. The soldiers can defend the city by holding onto the railing with there left (less dominant) hand while brandishing their swords with their right.CPH1_-213A statue of Our Savior stands on top of a globe at the top watching over the city.CPH1_-218A quick train ride to the north is where you will find the spires of Kronborg Castle, also known as Hamlet’s Castle.CPH1_-141

LINKS

St. Peter’s Church

St. Nicholas Art Museum

The Borsen (Stock Exchange)

Kronborg Castle

Church of Our Savior

 

Where Anarchy reigns…

Freetown Christiania is on the outskirts of Copenhagen. In the 1971, some homeless people were squatting in old military base. When they broke down a fence to use an abandoned playground for their kids, Christiania was born.CPH1_-204Colorful murals line the outer walls and every street corner in this quirky artistic community. There is theatre, live music and many other types of artistic expression within these walls. CPH1_-205The people of Christiania forbid, guns, violence, hard drugs and cars. Fireworks, biker’s colors and bullet proof vests are also discouraged. CPH1_-206In researching my visit to Christiania, there were quite a few websites cautioning against taking photographs in the neighborhood. Before 2017, an area known as Pusher Street was the site of many Marijuana dealers. Although marijuana is illegal in Copenhagen, the  dealers were afraid that photographers would turn them in to the police for illegal activities. An incident in 2016 in which a police officer was injured by a gun shot caused the community to shut down Pusher Street. CPH1_-207Christiania is a mix of homemade houses, workshops, art galleries, music venues and  organic restaurants. The town exists as a society within a society, you cannot buy a house in Christiania. You have to apply for it and if you are successful it is given to you. CPH1_-208

This colorful town is a great place to get lost for an afternoon.

CPH1_-209CPH1_-210Remember, there be dragons here!

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LINKS

13 Things to know about Christiania

 

Watch out for that hole…

Why are Manhole Covers round? There are several answers to this age old question.

  • A round manhole cover cannot fall through its opening.
  • Round tubes are stronger so the cover of a round tube is a circular shape.
  • A round manhole cover has a smaller surface than a square one and requires less material to make one.
  • When replacing the cover over the open hole, a round cover does not need to be rotated to align and fit.
  • A round manhole cover is easier to move by being rolled.

Whatever the reason, while walking around Copenhagen, take a moment to look down under your feet. There is some pretty cool art to be discovered.

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CPH1_-83Seen in Helsingor, home of Hamlet’s Kronborg Castle

CPH1_-113This one tells the story of the Steadfast Tin Soldier. The empty spot had a depiction of the one legged soldier. In the story he is about to be eaten by a fish after falling off of his shelf. Hans Christian Andersen

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Inside Tivoli Gardens, the manhole covers show the entry gates and the popular balloon ride.

Eating Out in Denmark

The Danish people are among the happiest in the world. They celebrate something they call Hygge pronounced hue-guh. Although there is no exact translation for Hygge most of the dictionaries reference it as cozy. Hygge is a style of life, it is a certain slowness of living and appreciating the moment.

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Eating in Copenhagen can be an adventure in and of itself. There is everything from traditional Danish fair to old standbys like McDonalds. One unusual place to try out is Copenhagen Street Food. Situated on Papiroen or Paper Island it opened in April 2014 in a warehouse previously used for storage for the Danish newspaper.

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There is ample seating outside along the canal or inside the trendy industrial building. Old shipping containers, reclaimed and walls insulated with mussels make this a quirky and fun place to visit.

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Micro breweries share space with Falafel and Ostrich Burgers.

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20170614_135729The Surf and Turf Burger was one of the best that I have had. A juicy beef patty was covered in sauteed prawns (or shrimp to you and me).CPH1_-196CPH1_-201

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For Dessert what could be better than a homemade donut? How about a Creme Brulee donut? The Donut is rolled in sugar and then flamed with a small torch until it is crispy and warm. Then they topped it with vanilla ice cream and homemade hot fudge. I need to go back.

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If you’re not the adventurous type. There was the Boston Grill in the Scandic Hotel. I think the entire restaurant was full of Americans and most of them from New England. The Clam Chowder was good, not as good as my brother’s but still delicious.

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For another dining adventure check out the Meat Packing District. Similar in concept to NYC’s reclaimed Meat Packing District, there are a wide variety of food options.

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Warpigs is Copenhagen’s answer to Southern Barbeque. If you have experienced Four Rivers Smokehouse in Central Florida then you have an idea of what to expect. The pulled pork was excellent but they missed the mark on the baked beans and potato salad. There are picnic tables outdoors and inside or you can eat in their private Dining Room with the pig skull chandelier.

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Street food is also abundantly available. Stop by a gelato stand for a little dessert on the way back to the hotel.

 

LINKS

Copenhagen Street Food

Boston Grill

Warpigs

Rundetaarn: The Round Tower

The Round Tower dates back to the 17th century and is the oldest observatory in Europe. Although the scientists have left long ago, the tower serves as a lookout for amateur astronomers and visitors.

CPH1_-47CPH1_-49The Gateway to the tower features the monograms of several Danish monarchs. CPH1_-50Danish Astronomer Tycho Brahe inspired the building of the Round Tower some decades after his death in 1601.  An interesting fact about this man is that Brahe lost part of his nose in a duel with a fellow nobleman. He received a prosthetic nose said to be of gold or silver held onto his face with paste. In 2010, his body was exhumed and the nose was found to be made of brass.CPH1_-51Although it was never used as the church’s tower, the chapel of the Trinity Church is part of the Round Tower complex.

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Rather than climb flights of stairs to the observation deck, a 7.5-turn spiral ramp is the the only access way to the observatory as well as the Library Hall and the Bell-Ringer’s Loft, both located above the church. You walk 7.5 times around the core of the tower before reaching the observation deck and observatory at the top. This allowed a horse and carriage to reach the library making it easy to move books in and out as well as transporting heavy and sensitive instruments to the observatory. Tzar Peter the Great rode to the observation deck on horseback with his wife Catherine in tow in her carriage behind. In later days both bicycles and motor vehicles have made the ascent.CPH1_-55CPH1_-53CPH1_-56

Thick wooden beams characterize the Bell Ringer’s Loft.

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The letters RFP in the ornate ironwork railings are from King Christian IV’s motto: “Regna Firmat Pietas” or “Piety Strengthens the Realm.”

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From the observation deck you get a 360 degree view of the city. On a clear day you can see for miles in all directions. The city is sprinkled with the spires of many churches.

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LINKS

Rundetaarn

What’s Your Sign

Long before public schools, shopkeepers would use graphic signs that showed what you can find in their shops. Need a Book, look for a book hanging outside a shop. Looking for shoes, look no further than this shop.CPH1_Bicycle rentals and repair
CPH1_-2An unusual sign outside of a Barber Shop. I’m not sure what the significance of the boot is, but the red and white stripes harken back to the days when Barbers also did blood-letting and other surgical procedures. In addition to getting a quick trim, the friendly Barber could also pull a bad tooth.  CPH1_-38That’s not a pretzel but a Kringle. A Danish pastry filled with almond paste and custard  and topped with sugar and almond flakes. The crown on top signifies that bakery is approved by the King.CPH1_-39A Locksmith works here.CPH1_-40

CPH1_-66BooksellerCPH1_-80Restaurants in NyhavenCPH1_-105CPH1_-107Tattoo Parlor
CPH1_-271British Style PubCPH1_-273Krog’s Restaurant opened in 1910 and is considered one of Copenhagen’s best and most beautiful restaurants. CPH1_-275

LINKS

The Sailor’s Grave

Charlie’s Bar

Krog’s Fish Restaurant

Nighttime Magic in Tivoli Gardens

     If you happen to be at Tivoli Gardens at night be sure to catch their laser, water, light show called Illuminations. The version that I saw was a celebration of Summer.CPH1_-263CPH1_-262CPH1_-261CPH1_-260

CPH1_-257     Tivoli’s Carousel features both tall and small animals so that you can choose your vantage point.CPH1_-35     A wall of Elephants as you exit the park. CPH1_-32The Trolley cars have been an institution at the gardens since 1969. Hop on one to get a tour of the gardens.

Tivoli Gardens

In 1843 the King of Copenhagen granted Georg Cartensen, permission to open Tivoli Gardens. The exotic and elegant gardens were opened to guests for the first time on August 15, 1843. Fairytale write Hans Christian Anderson was among the first visitors and some say this visit inspired him to write his story, “The Nightingale”.

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The stories of Hans Christian Andersen are featured in one of Tivoli’s popular attractions, The Flying Trunk or Den flyvende Kuffert. You may sense a similarity to Disney’s It’s A Small World.

Amusement parks had gotten a reputation of being somewhat seedy, but Tivoli was a clean and orderly park with lush flowers, family friendly rides and a fun festive atmosphere. Art Linkletter visited Tivoli in 1952 with Walt Disney and remembers Walt writing down notes about the gardens, seating, rides, food and all of the details that would inspire Disneyland a decade later.CPH1_-11CPH1_-10CPH1_-31CPH1_-30CPH1_-29Among the Bamboo Garden is the Japanese Pagoda, built in 1900. Originally it was known as The Chinese Tower until 2009, no one knows why the name was changed. Tea and refreshments are available for purchase inside.CPH1_-28In 1874, thousands of electric lights lit up the night in the gardens, There are approx. 2,800 bulbs on The Japanese Pagoda. The Pagoda was the first of the park’s buildings to get LED bulbs. The twinkling light bulbs are often referred to as Tivoli Lights. CPH1_-264The Moorish Palace in Tivoli is home to luxury Hotel Nimb designed by Knud Arne Petersen. In 1909 Wilhelm and Louise Nimb, who had created a restaurant empireOlder Posts in Copenhagen were brought in to manage the restaurant Divan 2, which still exists.CPH1_-19In October 2015 Hotel Nimb was awarded “Hotel of the Year” by Small Luxury Hotels (SLH) from 520 hotels across 82 countries around the world.CPH1_-20

Links

Tivoli Gardens

Nimb Hotel

Older Posts

”Then one day, when you least expect it, the great adventure finds you.” – Ewan McGregor

I have to admit that I have had some amazing opportunities because of my job. This past few months I have had the most wonderful travel adventure. 10 weeks, 12 countries, 2 oceans, 3 ships and thousands of photos. If you have the chance to travel to Northern Europe I recommend flying Scandinavian Air (SAS). The cabin crew was great, the food was better than I had ever had in the air and FRESH BAKED BREAD! You heard it right, FRESH BAKED BREAD. During both meal services, they pass around hot rolls. There must be a tiny bakery in the back of the plane somewhere. There were a couple of stewards in chef’s coats passing out the meals. Not expected but appreciated.

The only downside of my flight from Newark to Copenhagen was my seat neighbors. I try to book a seat the furthest away from anyone else, this flight happened to be full and my seat was 2 rows from the back of the plane. A young mother and child began hovering around my row while an austere Dane paced the cabin pointing out certain seats. When he finally took his seat next to me, with his wife on the opposite end of the row, the stewardess approached me. She said there was an empty seat further forward in the cabin and would I mind moving. I immediately said yes and then she informed me that the seat was not an aisle as I had been sitting in. I said that’s okay, what’s an 8 hour flight sandwiched in between complete strangers. As she helped me with my carry-on she thanked me and told me that I saved them a lot of trouble from the couple next to me.

As we prepared for landing, she asked me if I was travelling onward or staying in Copenhagen. I said I would be in Copenhagen for a few days and she hurried away as we got ready to land. Once we were on the ground she came back holding a trash bag full of something and handed it to me. Thanking me again, she had assembled a goody bag of wine and beer. That couple must have been real pains in the ass, and who am I to turn down free booze.

This was my third trip to Europe having previously visited Amsterdam, Hamberg, Bremerhaven, London and Cadiz. This time I started out in Copenhagen and then returned for a week’s vacation after work was done.

The first day of any trip, I make a point of getting the lay of the land.  Research, Google Maps, Travel Books, Rick Steves are all part of the planning process. In my opinion, the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus has been a great way to get an overview of the city and plan where I want to visit more in depth during my stay.CPH1_-3     Copenhagen is an incredibly walkable city and has great public transportation. Since buying a car becomes with an 180% tax, most residents walk, ride the bus or bike. My hotel – The Richmond was centrally located right near the train station and Tivoli Gardens. CPH1_-255

CPH1_-214      The weather in June was great, unlike the 90+ temps back home, Copenhagen was very comfortable and cool. The days were long and by long I mean sunrise at 4am and sunset at 11:30pm. I found that most people spoke English very well and everyone was friendly and helpful.

After 8 days in Copenhagen, there was still so much to still see. A return trip is definitely in order.

 

Links:

Richmond Hotel

Scandinavian Air

Hop On Hop Off Bus

Visit Copenhagen